July 30, 2024 — Contemporary Philippine fashion designer Jor-el Espina kicks off a series of pocket celebrations that will lead up to his milestone 20th year anniversary in May 2025. “This is something that I’ve been wanting to do for the Jor-el Espina brand,” says the designer who hails from Iloilo, a city in the western region of the Philippines.

For Espina, no one show or fashion celebration could accurately sum up two decades of evolution, growth, and constant adaptation. His 20-year journey as a designer has been paved with countless pivotal moments and milestones. And it felt appropriate for him to kick off the celebrations with a private fashion preview of his pieces for ArteFino Festival 2024. 

“These are ready-to-wear pieces that will be showcased at this year’s ArteFino Festival. Some of the art-deco design elements in this collection will be present in the main show for the 20th anniversary next year. In that respect, you can consider this as a prelude. I chose art deco as the theme because it also happens that next year will be the 100th year of the Art Deco Movement,” he explains. 

Espina emphasizes the relevance of celebrating with the launch of his collection for ArteFino. “The artisan movement opened countless doors for me–in retail, in building a brand, creating a business, and being globally competitive.” 

A Tribute To The Bomberong and The ArteFino Community

It was in 2017 when, upon the invitation of a fellow designer, Espina first joined the artisanal trade fair. During this debut, he showcased the signature Bomberong jackets, which would later establish him as an emerging contemporary wear designer with distinct Philippine sensibilities. “I started developing the Bomberong jacket as early as 2013. Back in Iloilo, these jackets just hung on the racks. No one seemed to mind or appreciate them,” he reveals. 

Manila’s trendsetters were quick to embrace the unique point of view of Espina, seamlessly merging contemporary design with distinctive Philippine artistry. The bomber jacket-barong Tagalog hybrid soon became the style essential that distinguished a well-curated, conscious, and proudly Filipino wardrobe. “It was so inspiring to know that people were responding to what I was doing,” says Espina. The following year, he joined ArteFino again, this time with his own booth under the Jor-el Espina brand. 

An Adaptation in Retail and Branding

Before joining the artisanal trade fair, Espina was largely focused on designing bespoke pieces. “Back home, in order for you to be regarded as a designer, you had to do bridal or formal wear. So that became my signature. Even during that time, I would make ready-to-wear pieces, which primarily served as references for clients who wanted to see the fall or fit of a fabric.” 

Ahead of the love local boom, Espina was inclined to incorporate local weaves like hablon, pina, and abaca into his designs. This was in the early 2000s, a time when most designers were utilizing imported materials. “Being based in Iloilo, I was fortunate to have access to these beautiful fabrics and talented artisans. I advocated the use of  local fabrics early in my career, even if at that time (in 2004)  it was not very popular. I would even sometimes ask artisans to create weaves for me and incorporate them into my designs.”

In his 20 years as a designer and staunch advocate for local craft, Espina has built a sizable archive of Philippine fabrics. “I hoard local fabrics because when I come across a weave that is beautiful and well-made I just know that it will find its way to my creations. For this new collection, I will feature a jusi multicolored striped fabric which I’ve had for years.” He adds that maintaining an inventory of fine Filipino fabrics allows him to keep the quality of his ready-to-wear pieces. “I don’t need to compromise just because a certain fabric is no longer available.” 

By and large, Espina’s initial exposure to the ArteFino market inspired him to adapt the work he had been doing in his atelier to the retail world. “After joining ArteFino for the first time, I realized that there is a market for discerning individuals who want to wear something special to events. However, they are not keen about waiting. I began to explore how I could develop a retail brand that’s more mindful and anchored to the values of creating beautiful things that last,” he shared.

The young designer then began to revisit his past works, reimagining how they would translate as ready-to-wear garments. “How do I adapt archival designs more current?” he often asks before working on a new collection.

Building A Business, Building A Look

Espina’s creativity is matched by his sharp business acumen. When he was starting out in the early 2000s, he opened a shop in Iloilo that catered mostly to custom orders. As he began to grow his client base especially in Manila, demands from his production team subsequently began to grow. “I am both a designer and a business person at my core. When I got exposed to the Manila market, I began to run shop and production more professionally.”

When shuttling between Iloilo and Manila proved too taxing, he decided to open a shop in the capital. “I like to keep things at the back end very efficiently and organized both in Iloilo and in Manila. We have professionals running various areas of the operation from sewers to production heads, and even human resource persons. The way I run the business has always been this way even when I was starting out.” And while a team that runs like a well oiled machine allows him to focus on his creative work, Espina clarifies, “Despite all the help, I insist on always being hands-on whether it be in the production aspect down to the delivery of garments to clients.”  

He applies the same principles of building a business to his ready-to-wear collections. “I start by creating separates before putting together a look. These are pieces that will move from the racks on their own or as part of a complete look.

Espina, who considers his clients as one of his most early  fashion influences, has a keen understanding of his market’s buying psychology. This informs his strategy as a fashion retail brand.  “As a designer, I took it upon myself to engage in a collaborative exchange with my clients. Apart from creating beautiful things, you also become a way for clients to realize their vision.” 

20 Years of Adaptation

Although experience and continuous learning have shaped Espina into the celebrated designer he is today, he still walks into his shop each day with the same level of excitement and enthusiasm that fueled him almost  20 years ago. “I still feel like I’m new to this business and that there is so much that I still need to do. So much to create and discover,” he intimates. 

As he prepares for a banner year in 2025, Espina is looking to the past and embracing what lies ahead. He hints, “For my ArteFino collection and even for the show that will be unveiled next year, you will see art-deco elements that are interpreted in a distinctly Filipino manner.” Design details that are distinct to the Jor-El Espina brand were revisited with regard for the sensibilities of the times.

These include signature drapes, embroideries, rich color tones, silhouettes, and inlays. “I wanted to show a modern application  of these very same elements. Adaptation for me is an application and interpretation of different eras in my career. It is also an exercise in venturing into the limitless realm of creativity with an open heart and mind.” 

For more on Jor-el Espina follow his work on Instagram: jorel_espinaph